Lake Como — villas, villages, and mountain scenery

Lake Como (Lago di Como) is the deepest lake in Italy at 410 metres and the third-largest, shaped like an upside-down Y with the city of Como at its base. Its narrow valleys, mountains rising directly from the water, and the famous villas clinging to terraced gardens along the shores have attracted writers, composers, and the wealthy for two centuries. Shelley, Wordsworth, Bellini, and more recently George Clooney have all been associated with the lake. The practical visitor reality: it is 40 minutes by train from Milan, breathtakingly beautiful, and worth at least a full day.

Getting there from Milan

The fastest option is the train from Milano Centrale or Cadorna to Como San Giovanni — journey time about 40 minutes, tickets from €4.80. However, Como city is just one end of the lake and not the most scenic. To reach Bellagio (on the central peninsula) or Varenna (on the east branch), you need to take a ferry from Como: 2 hours to Bellagio, 2.5 hours to Varenna. Alternatively, take a train to Varenna-Esino (from Milano Centrale, change at Lecco, about 1.5 hours) and explore the east branch by ferry.

For a structured day trip with transport included, see our Lake Como day trip guide.

The city of Como

Como sits at the southwestern tip of the lake and is a prosperous city in its own right, separate from the tourist economy. The old town centre has a fine medieval cathedral (duomo), begun in 1396 and with a Gothic-Renaissance facade and Flemish tapestries inside. The silk industry that made Como famous has a museum (Museo della Seta, around €10 entry) on the edge of town. The waterfront promenade is pleasant for a morning walk before taking the ferry up the lake.

Bellagio: the pearl of the lake

Bellagio’s position on the tip of the peninsula between the lake’s two southern branches gives it views in three directions and an intimacy that other Como towns lack. The steep lanes (salite) climbing from the waterfront up through the village, the Liberty-era hotels, and the gardens of Villa Melzi and Villa Serbelloni draw visitors year-round.

Villa del Balbianello (about 20 minutes by ferry or taxi-boat from Bellagio) is the most dramatic villa on the lake: a seventeenth-century structure on a rocky promontory with terraced gardens designed for maximum theatrical effect. Scenes from Casino Royale and Star Wars: Episode II were filmed here. Entry to the gardens is around €10; the interior (by guided tour only, Tuesday and weekends) is an additional €5.

Budget around €35–45 per person to enter the key gardens in Bellagio. The village itself is free to wander, though it fills with day-trippers from late morning. Staying overnight lets you experience it before 9 a.m. and after 6 p.m. when the day tourists have gone.

Varenna: the quieter east shore

Varenna on the lake’s eastern branch is, by common agreement among repeat visitors, the most beautiful village on Como. It is smaller than Bellagio, has fewer tourists, and offers a stunning waterfront passeggiata (promenade) that partially runs over the water on boardwalks. Villa Monastero (€5 entry for the garden, €8 with the interior) has exceptional botanical gardens running along the lakefront. Villa Cipressi next door opens its gardens for a similar fee.

The Varenna-Esino train station is a steep 15-minute walk above the village (400 steps) — factor this in if you have luggage.

Villa Carlotta

Between Bellagio and Como on the western shore, Villa Carlotta (circa 1690) has the finest formal garden on the lake: spectacular in April and May when azaleas, rhododendrons, and camellias are in bloom. Entry to gardens and villa combined is around €12. Ferry services connect it to Bellagio (10 minutes) and Como (50 minutes).

Boat travel on the lake

The public ferry service (Navigazione Laghi) is the most pleasant way to travel between lakeside towns. Ferries are frequent in summer (every 30–60 minutes between the main towns), slower in winter. A one-way ticket from Como to Bellagio is around €11; from Varenna to Bellagio is €5. One-day unlimited hop-on-hop-off passes are available for roughly €28.

Private taxi-boat hire is expensive (€80–150 per hour) but allows you to stop at the less-served villas and quieter villages on the shore.

Comparing Lake Como with the other Italian Lakes

Lake Como is the most dramatic scenically — narrower and more mountain-enclosed than either Lake Garda or Lake Maggiore. It is also the most fashionable and, per unit of accommodation, the most expensive. For a comparison of all three, see our which Italian lake to visit guide.

Villa del Balbianello and the filming connection

Villa del Balbianello, on the western shore below the village of Lenno, is the most cinematically dramatic of all Lake Como’s villas. Its seventeenth-century loggia and terraced gardens were used in Casino Royale (2006, with Daniel Craig) and Star Wars: Episode II — Attack of the Clones (2002). The location makes immediate visual sense: the villa projects from a small rocky headland into the lake, surrounded by water on three sides, with the Alps as backdrop.

Access is by taxi-boat from Lenno (approximately €10 each way) or on foot via a 15-minute path from the village. Opening hours are restricted (usually Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday for the interior; other days for the gardens only). Entry for gardens only is around €10; interior guided tour adds approximately €5. The booking system fills on weekends in season — arrive early or book online through FAI (the Italian National Trust, which manages the villa).

The Tremezzina and Villa Carlotta

The Tremezzina is the stretch of western shore between Argegno and Menaggio, widely considered the most beautiful section of Lake Como for the concentration of villas and the quality of the light. Villa Carlotta (between Tremezzo and Cadenabbia) is the most visited villa garden on the lake: 8 hectares of terraced gardens with an exceptional collection of rhododendrons (300+ varieties), azaleas, camellias, and a parterre inspired by formal Italian garden design. In April and May, the garden is extraordinary; at other times it is merely very good. Entry to villa and garden combined is around €12.

Hiking and outdoor activities

The hills above the lake offer serious walking. The Greenway del Lago di Como is an 11-kilometre waymarked trail along the western shore between Colonno and Cadenabbia, passing through villages and villa gardens with constant lake views. It takes 3–4 hours and is manageable for fit walkers without specialist equipment.

The Civate cable car above Como ascends to Brunate, a small village with a panoramic view over the lake and Alps. Round-trip fare is about €7.

Where to stay

Lake Como accommodation ranges from simple waterfront pension in Varenna (€80–120/night) to the legendary Grand Hotel Tremezzo or Villa d’Este (from €600/night). Bellagio and Varenna are the most atmospheric bases; Como city works if you are arriving by train and prefer more urban facilities.

Frequently asked questions about Lake Como

Is Lake Como doable as a day trip from Milan?

Yes, with caveats. Como city is easily done in a day, but reaching Bellagio or Varenna requires ferry time that eats substantially into a day trip. A long day (8 a.m. to 8 p.m.) can cover the train to Varenna, a ferry to Bellagio, and a return from Como — but it is rushed. Two days is the comfortable minimum for the full experience.

How much does a day trip to Lake Como cost?

Train Milan–Como: from €4.80 each way. Ferry Como–Bellagio: about €11. Entry to Villa del Balbianello: €10 (gardens) plus €5 (interior, tour days only). Lunch: €15–25 per person in a lakeside trattoria. Budget €60–80 per person for a well-planned day.

Which is better: Bellagio or Varenna?

Bellagio has more restaurants, hotels, and the central peninsula views; it is busier but has more to offer in a concentrated space. Varenna is quieter, arguably more beautiful in a more understated way, and better for a slower pace. Visit both if you have time.

Can I swim in Lake Como?

Yes. The lake is clean enough for swimming. The water temperature ranges from about 14°C in May to 24°C in August. There are small beaches and lidos at several villages; Bellagio’s Lido is the most popular.

Is the Bernina Express worth taking from Lake Como?

The Bernina Express (part of the Rhaetian Railway UNESCO route) can be joined at Tirano, accessible by ferry from the northern end of Lake Como. It is a scenic mountain railway journey through the Alps to St Moritz. From Milan the combined trip is a long day; from an overnight base in Varenna it is more comfortable.

What is the best villa garden on Lake Como?

This depends on the season. Villa Carlotta in April-May for the flowering azaleas; Villa del Balbianello year-round for architectural drama; Villa Monastero in Varenna for a quieter experience. All three are within the same day-trip radius.

How do I get from Como to Bellagio by boat?

Take a regular passenger ferry (traghetto) from Como’s pier — the journey takes about 2 hours with intermediate stops. The faster hydrofoil (aliscafo) covers the same route in about 1 hour 15 minutes and costs slightly more. Timetables are on the Navigazione Laghi website.